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Composting is the natural process whereby organic matter breaks down into a state in which it can improve soil texture and moisture retention while feeding the soil microorganisms essential to plant growth and health. Nobody has too much compost, particularly in Northern New Mexico, where soils are often low in organic matter. So adding compost to your yard several times a year can in the long run make a big difference in how your garden grows.
If you're planning on making a compost heap for the first time and live in a housing development, be sure to check with your neighborhood housing association to see if it permits compost heaps in its neighborhood — some associations don't. The reasons usually given for such prohibitions are that (1) compost heaps smell bad and (2) attract unwanted animals. But a properly made and maintained compost heap won't smell bad. In fact, it will hardly smell at all. And it won't attract anything but birds — looking for all the worms your compost is nurturing!
Some folks won't build compost heaps because they've been told they'll have to turn them repeatedly in order to let air into the pile. Turning a heap speeds up the composting process, but left to its own devices, a properly made heap will rot down in 6 months to a year without having been turned. Furthermore, a properly made heap — one that isn't overwatered, and that contains proper proportions of carbon and nitrogen — will be naturally well-aerated. Worm Lovers Alert: If you add live worms to your compost pile, don't turn the pile too often. Otherwise, it can heat up too much and kill off the worms. Turning your pile once a month should be plenty.
Another way to get past the heap-aeration hassle is to use a commercially available rotating compost bin: you turn the handle and the drum rotates, aerating the compost within. Drawback: such bins are usually too small to yield a significant amount of compost. They also overheat and dry out easily in our northern New Mexico climate. If you purchase such a bin, set it in a place partly shaded from the afternoon sun, and check it every couple of days to make sure it isn't drying out. You can also paint it white to reflect away some of our fierce summer sunlight.
The Three Bin System: True compost fanatics often set up more than one pile. When I was in Switzerland years ago, I saw a triple bin in a farmyard. Its sides were made of three wooden pallets held up by metal stakes that had been driven into the ground. The outward-facing side was open. The farmer would fill the first bin to capacity; then she would move the contents of the first bin to the second bin, aerated them in the process. Next she would start refilling the now-empty first bin. When it was refilled to the top, she would move the contents of the second bin to the empty third bin, the contents of the first bin to the second bin, and start filling up the first bin again. This way she was assured of a continuous supply of compost in various stages of aging.
If three bins seems like too much, don't despair — even one compost heap can make a difference to your garden!
What To Add To A Compost Heap
Good compost is made up of five components: carbon materials, nitrogen materials, air, water, and beneficial microbes.
Carbon Materials: Carbon materials are dry and fibrous. They are slower to decompose than other compost additives, but their fibrosity helps aerate the pile and improve the texture of the final product. Carbon materials can include:
• shredded paper egg cartons
• shredded nonglossy paper
• shredded black and white newspapers (don't compost the glossy color sections; the dyes can be poisonous)
• crushed eggshells
• chopped shrub and tree prunings
• dry leaves
• hay or straw
• wood shavings and sawdust from untreated lumber
• human or pet hair
• crushed corncobs
• tea bags with staples and tags removed
Nitrogen Materials: Nitrogen materials are wetter and greener than carbon materials. They fuel a pile's heat, which speeds up decomposition. Nitrogen materials can include:
• fruit and vegetable scraps (except citrus)
• fresh clippings from grass that has not been treated with herbicides
• chopped up weeds that have not yet formed seeds
• chopped up vegetable plants (don't use them if they died from some disease)
• coffee grounds
• discarded bulbs and houseplants
Never add the following ingredients to a compost heap!
• citrus peels or fruit (such as oranges, grapefruits, lemons, limes)
• animal scraps (bones, meat, skin, fat) — they stink as they rot and attract pests
• human, dog, or cat poop (it can harbor diseases transmittable to humans)
• colored or glossy paper and newspaper — the inks can be toxic in the environment (soy inks are okay)
• artificial fibers, such as nylon (they won't rot)
• wood ash, coal ash, or charcoal ash (they can raise the pH of your pile and may contain toxic substances)
• pine or piñon needles (they contain natural chemicals that can inhibit plant growth)
• untreated sewage (it contains extremely dangerous chemicals)
• clippings from herbicide-killed plants
How To Build A New Compost Heap
1. What Should I Use To Make My Bin?
You can use commercial compost bins (we recommend the Garden Gourmet™ composter) or make your own from wood, discarded pallets, wire mesh, cinder blocks, or straw bales.
2. How Big Should My Bin Be?
For optimum results, a bin should contain an area of at least 27 cubic feet; that's an interior space 3 feet wide by 3 feet deep by 3 feet tall. A pile of at least 64 cubic feet in area (4' x 4' x 4') will do even better, particular during the cold of winter and early spring, because its volume is great enough to protect its living warm interior from the encroaching frost.
3. Where Should I Put My Bin?
Set up your bin in a place where it will be slightly shaded from afternoon sun. If you have no such area, rig over it a canopy of woven shade cloth (which comes in different grades and density of shade).
4. How Do I Add Materials To My Bin?
As they become available, add in layers the carbon and nitrogen materials (see above) that you wish to compost. Between each layer, to speed up the decomposition process, sprinkle over the pile 2 tablespoons (no more) of ammonium sulfate, or a 1/2 cup of any of the following: dried powdered blood meal; dried powdered horse-, cow-, chicken-, duck-, or llama-manure; worm castings; Gro-Power™ fertilizer; or commercial compost "starter." Worm castings usually contain worm eggs, which will hatch in your comfy heap to enrich and aerate it. You can also add live earthworms or to your pile, but don't use nightcrawlers.
5. How Much Should I Water My Compost?
When you've finished adding a layer to the compost heap, lightly water it. You're shooting for just moist, not soggy — a pile with the moistness of a wrung-out sponge. If the pile leaks water when you push down on it, it's too wet. We suggest checking your pile every three days to see how it's doing.
6. How Do I Know When My Compost Is Ready To Use?
As your compost pile matures, it will shrink. Finished compost is dark brown to black, with a crumbly texture.
7. How Do I Use My Compost?
You may add your compost to enrich potting soils for use with container growing indoors or out; you may also add it directly to both new and existing outdoor garden beds. We recommend spreading over outdoor beds a 3-4" layer of compost at the minimum. You may scratch it into the soil or use it as a mulch. Don't worry — you can't add too much, and it won't burn your plants' roots.
Alert: When using compost as mulch, take care not to put it right up against tree, shrub, or other plant stems; the moisture-retentive qualities of compost could lead to fungus infections at the plants' "crown," the place where the aboveground stem meets the rootball. After you apply your compost (or any mulch), pull it 3-4" away from the stem of the plant, leaving a 3-4" gap around the plant's crown.
For further information on soil building in Santa Fe, click here.
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