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 A deciduous tree is a tree that has very strong opinions about everything. Just kidding. Actually, a deciduous tree is a tree that sheds its leaves every fall, in contrast to an evergreen tree, which keeps its leaves year round. A flowering plum is a deciduous tree. An Engelmann spruce is an evergreen tree.
Here's how to select, site, plant, and prune the best deciduous tree for your needs!
Choosing & Siting Your Deciduous Tree
Choose the right sized tree for the area you have in mind. This may seem obvious, but some gardeners, anxious to leave as few "holes" as possible in their landscaping, tend to cram small young trees together without allowing them the space they will need to mature.
 Some people say, "Well, it's going to take this young tree fifteen years to get fully mature, and I'm probably not going to be here that long. I'd rather enjoy the high density now and let somebody else worry about space considerations after I'm gone." The trouble with this approach is that for optimum health, even young trees need plenty of space, not only above ground, where they spread their branches, but below ground, too. Why? Because tree roots travel as much or more sideways as they do downwards. So find out what the mature height and spread will be of the tree you plan to buy and site it accordingly.
If you are shopping for a tree to provide shade for your yard, a larger tree is generally best. If your area is small, then a blooming ornamental or fruit tree will fill the area and provide a bonus of colorful flowers and/or fruit.
Planting Your Deciduous Tree
- Dig a hole twice as wide and only as deep as the rootball of the tree. Be sure to adjust the hole so that the top of the rootball is level to the ground level.
- If your tree is in a container rather than "bare root," remove the container from the tree's rootball by turning the plant upside down or on its side and gently tapping on the pot until the plant slides out.
- If there is any wire on the rootball, remove it.
- If the root ball is burlap wrapped, be sure to trim back the burlap from the top of the ball after placing it in the planting hole, or the burlap may wick water away from the root system and kill the plant.
- If you notice that the root ball is tightly overdeveloped, so that the roots have girdled the pot, make vertical cuts with sharp shears or a knife, 1 inch deep from the top to the bottom of the root ball on all four sides. Also make a horizontal cut 2 inches deep on the bottom of the root ball from side to side and spread the cut open when planting. This procedure does not hurt the plant and will ensure proper rooting into the ground.
- After placing the plant in the hole, fill around the rootball with a blended mixture of 1 part organic compost (Payne's Soil Conditioner is excellent for this purpose) and 2 parts of your garden's soil. Firm the backfill by tamping it gently (don't stamp down on it).
- Build a watering basin around the plant high enough to hold 3 to 4 inches of water. Make the basin at least twice as wide as the hole you dug.
- Place mulch in the basin, 2 to 3 inches deep, using organic compost (again, Payne's Soil Conditioner works well) or bark. Keep the mulch at least 2 inches from the trunk of your tree, so that rodents do not tunnel through the mulch and gnaw the bark from around the trunk.
- Immediately water the tree deeply by filling the basin with water once, letting it soak in, then filling it a second time. Using a root stimulator, such as SuperThrive™, at planting time will greatly reduce transplant shock and encourage your trees to resume their normal growing habits more quickly.
Pruning Your Deciduous Tree
Most pruning is best done in early spring. Most trees require little, if any, pruning to maintain desired shape and vigor. Pruning is best confined to removal of dead, diseased, unsightly or competing branches. You may cover the fresh wound with a thin coat of pruning paint.
Many people like to remove the lowest branches of a tree to make it possible to walk underneath the tree. This should be done gradually, only removing a couple of branches each year, because pruning a tree stresses its system much as surgery does a human patient. It is far wiser to select a tree that already possesses naturally the characteristics you desire than to buy a tree that you have to keep pruning to maintain the right “look”.
Watering Your Deciduous Tree
It is impossible to give a watering schedule that will be right for every tree in all conditions. Soil type, root ball and plant size, growth rate, air temperature, humidity, wind and light intensity will all affect how often a tree needs watering. (Needless to say, always observe local watering ordinances.)
The basic rule of thumb is to water deeply, but infrequently. Get the water down a minimum of 18 inches at each watering. This encourages the plant to develop a deep, drought tolerant root system. Then give the soil a chance to dry slightly between waterings. It is common for people to kill or unnecessarily stress their plants by watering too frequently. The roots of a plant require oxygen in order to function. If the soil is constantly waterlogged, there is not enough oxygen available to the root system and the roots suffocate and die.
Always maintain water basins around trees (with the possible exception of those watered by drip systems). The basin should be wide enough to accommodate the root system of the plant for the first 3 to 4 years (generally out beyond the drip-line of the plant) and high enough to hold 3 to 4 inches of water. Fill the basin, let it soak in, then fill again. Let the soil dry slightly (to a depth of 2 to 4 inches) before the next watering. To determine dryness, remove a handful of soil from that depth and squeeze it; if it holds its shape then the soil is still wet; if it falls apart then it is time to water. After using this trick several times you will learn the plant’s watering schedule.
For plants that will be watered by drip or sprinkler systems, water as described above at planting time, then, within a few weeks, remove the basin. Most of the plant’s needs can now be met with your watering system’s schedule. However, a deep soaking every month or two is recommended for optimum nurturing. During the winter months, we recommend a deep soaking on a monthly basis for at least the first two years after planting.
Feeding Your Deciduous Tree
In late April or May of the very first spring after planting, feed your deciduous tree with granular, liquid or spike fertilizers. Maintain mulch around your plantings at all times, 2 to 3 inches thick, using organic compost or bark. (Again, make sure the mulch does not touch the tree's trunk.) 1 to 3 times a year, you will also need to add mineral supplements to the soil around the tree (such as Ironite™, greensand or rock dust, copperas or soil sulfur) in order to keep soil loosened, the alkalinity and acidity balanced, and the plants properly fed.
Dealing With Pests of Deciduous Trees
Disease and insect problems should be dealt with as soon as they appear. Proper diagnosis is very important. Bring in an affected plant sample to Payne's so that we can help diagnose the problem and prescribe the best treatment. An application of dormant spray in the late winter or early spring can prevent many insect and disease problems in the coming growing season. So can good sanitation in your landscape (raking up plant debris and bagging or burning it so that insects and disease cannot overwinter in it). •
For further information on deciduous trees for the Northern New Mexico landscape, come by one of our stores or give us a call. For Payne's North, call 505-988-8011 (ask for Carter or Ephraim); for Payne's South, call 505-988-9626 (ask for Sabino or T.J.). |
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