European grapes (Vitis vinifera) provide most of our wine varieties, as well as most of the fresh table grapes that we find in our grocery stores. They are not as cold hardy as American grapes and can be damaged by an especially cold winter. We recommend planting these varieties in the Albuquerque area and further south. Examples of European varieties are 'Thompson Seedless', 'Flame Seedless', and 'Cabernet Sauvignon'.

Dig a hole twice as wide and only as deep as the rootball of the plant. Be sure to adjust the hole so that the top of the rootball is level to the ground level. Next remove the container. You can remove plastic pots by turning the plant upside down or laying it on its side and gently tapping on the pot until the plant slides out.

If you notice that the root ball is tightly overdeveloped, then make vertical cuts with sharp shears or a knife, 1” deep from the top to the bottom of the root ball on all 4 sides. Also, make a horizontal cut 2” deep on the bottom of the root ball from side to side and spread the cut open when planting. This procedure does not hurt the plant and will ensure proper rooting into the ground.

Place the plant in the hole and refill around its rootball with a blended mixture of 50% Payne's Organic Soil Conditioner and 50% of the soil you dug from the hole. Firm the backfill by tamping it gently.

Build a watering basin around the plant high enough to hold 3” to 4” of water. Make the basin at least as wide as the hole that was dug. Immediately water the plant deeply by filling the basin with water once, letting it soak in and then filling it up a second time. The use of a root stimulator at planting time will greatly reduce transplant shock and encourage your plants to resume their normal growing habits more quickly. Place mulch in the basin, 2” to 3” deep, using organic compost.

A grapevine is composed of a trunk; "arms," which grow laterally from the trunk; and canes, which sprout from the arms. Buds develop on the canes, and it is from these buds that the new wood emerges upon which this year's grapes will appear. Grape vines should be pruned each year when they are totally dormant to help control their size and to stimulate the production of abundant, quality fruit. There are two ways to prune grapes: spur pruning and cane pruning.

Both pruning methods begin with cane thinning: cutting out enough canes on each vine to leave the remaining canes about 6 inches apart. This permits air and light to reach the interior of the vine, and concentrates the vine's strength into the remaining canes. After you have performed cane thinning, you proceed to prune, choosing one of the two methods following.

Spur Pruning

Spur pruning is the practice of pruning a cane very short, so that only two or three buds remain on the cane. (When a cane is pruned this way, it is called a "spur.") When counting down the cane to find the last two or three buds, ignore in your count any buds that are closer than 1/4" from the base of the cane.

Cane Pruning

Cane pruning is more complicated that spur pruning because whereas in spur pruning, all canes can be pruned short, in cane pruning, you prune your grapevine into alternating long canes and short canes. Every other cane you prune long, leaving 10-15 buds per cane; the remaining canes you spur prune to only 2 buds per cane.

Spur pruning is considered by many gardeners the easier of the two methods to do. However, certain grape varieties, such as 'Thompson Seedless', will not bear any fruit if spur pruned and must be cane pruned. Check to see which method your variety requires.

It is impossible to give a watering schedule that will be right for everyone all of the time. Such factors as soil type, root ball and plant size, how fast the plant is growing, air temperature, humidity, wind and light intensity will all affect how often a particular plant needs watering.

The basic rule of thumb is to water deeply, but infrequently. A thorough soaking once a week should accomplish this, enough to moisten your soil to the depth of 18" or deeper. This will encourage your grapevine to develop a deep, drought tolerant root system. Between waterings, give the soil a chance to dry slightly. It is common for people to kill or unnecessarily stress their plants by watering too frequently. Why does too-frequent watering hurt plants? Because the roots of a plant require oxygen in order to function. If the soil is constantly waterlogged, there is not enough oxygen available to the root system and the roots suffocate and die.

In light of this, we recommend maintaining water basins around your grapevines (except those watered by drip systems). For the first 3 to 4 years, the floor of your water basin should be wide enough to accommodate the root system of your plant — generally out to the drip-line of the plant — and the rim of your water basin should be high enough off the surface of the soil to hold 3” to 4” of water. Fill the basin with water, let the water soak into the soil, then fill the basin again. Let the top 2" to 4" of the soil dry slightly before watering again. To determine if the soil is dry enough to water, remove a handful of soil from 2 to 4" down and squeeze it. If the soil-clump holds its shape then the soil is still wet; if it falls apart then it is time to water. After using this trick several times you will learn the plant’s watering schedule.

For plants that will be watered by drip systems, water as described above at planting time. Within 4-6 weeks, the plant will have accomodated itself to your site sufficiently that its needs should now be met with your watering system’s schedule. However, a deep soaking every month or two is recommended for optimum nurturing of the vines. In addition, during the winter months, we recommend a deep soaking on a monthly basis for at least the first two years after planting.

We also recommend that you maintain a 2" to 3" mulch of organic compost or bark around your grapevines at all times. This will inhibit the soil from drying out too quickly

In late April or May of the spring after you plant your grapevine, once you see obvious signs of new growth, begin fertilizing with a granular or liquid fertilizer. Grapes prefer a low nitrogen fertilizer like Gro-Power™ or Ferti-Lome Gardeners' Special™; high nitrogen fertilizers stimulate fast, lush vine growth that produces little or no flowers and fruit. Grapes also appreciate the addition of mineral supplements, both to feed the vines and keep the soil around them loose and at the proper level of acidity (pH). It may be necessary to add magnesium sulphate, copperas, or soil sulfur depending upon the makeup and pH of your soil. (Have a professional soil test done if you are unsure.) Apply these supplements 1-3 times per year.

Disease and insect problems should be dealt with as soon as they appear. Because of the variety of possible problems, proper diagnosis is very important. Bring in an affected plant sample to us at Payne's so we can diagnose the problem and prescribe the best treatment available. An application of dormant spray in the late winter or early spring can help prevent many problems in the coming growing season as can good sanitation in your landscape. One or two applications of neem oil during the summer growing system should eliminate most insect and disease problems.