If you're new to northern New Mexico, we recommend you read Payne's advice on building local soil before starting to plant a shrub or perennial.

Dig the Hole to the Right Depth

Rule of Thumb: Make the hole 2 times the width of the tree, shrub, or perennial rootball and 2 inches deeper than the rootball.

1. Take all the dirt out of the hole.
2. Using a spading fork, loosen the bottom 1 foot of the dirt in the hole.
3. Mix the soil from the hole with soil amendments. (See "What Kind of Soil Do You Have?" below for amendment suggestions.)
4. Make a little mound of soil inside the bigger hole, spread the roots of the plant over the little mound, and backfill with the amended soil.
5.  Water in the plant, allowing the water to settle the soil. Do not step on the soil around the plant to compact the soil — doing so can force the oxygen out of the soil, and plants, like people, need oxygen to thrive. Water in with a solution of root stimulator.
   

The amendments to mix with soil depend on the kind of soil.  Many areas in and around Santa Fe have heavy clay soils, but some places have sandy soils. Here's a simple test to determine basically what kind of soil you have: Water a patch of soil. When the water has drained away, scoop up a handful of the soil and squeeze it tight in your fist. Then open your palm and observe the squeezed lump. Does it  sit there in a little ball? The soil is probably heavy clay. Does it collapse the moment your fingers release their pressure on it? The soil is probably sandy. Does it crumble around the edges but stay reasonably coherent? Then it may be sandy loam which is great for gardening.

Soil Amendments: For heavy clay soils, mix the soil taken out of the planting hole with 1/2 the same volume of crushed lava rock, crusher fines (small particles of crushed rock), or fine gravel. For sandy soils, mix 1 part soil with 1 part compost, such as Payne's Soil Conditioner cotton burr compost.

Fertilizers: If planting in the fall, don't  add quick-release fertilizer to the soil because it will encourage transplants to put out new soft growth that can be killed by frost. Instead, add a slow-release plant food into to the planting hole (ask for recommendations at either Payne's store). These give plants a nutrient boost during the winter, when they are building new root systems. Regardless of season, don't apply fertilizer at higher rates than those recommended on the container. Overly generous fertilizer applications can burn plant roots, which damages or kills the parts above ground. Keep in mind that too much nitrogen (nitrogen is the first number on the fertilizer label) can encourage lush, weak growth that is prone to damage by insects and disease.

Watering: For the first month after planting a tree, shrub, or perennial, water it deeply 3 times a week. Gradually reduce the watering to 2 times a week. After the first hard frost, reduce watering to 1 time a week. Most plants die in the winter due to lack of watering. Even if it is a wet winter,  outdoor trees and shrubs need to be watered.

Mulch: Mulching helps conserve moisture, so put down at least 2 inches (4 inches is better) of mulch immediately after planting, then again every season as the mulch breaks down and becomes part of the soil. Don't put mulch right up against a tree trunk because it may attract disease and insect pests. Put it at least 2 inches away and as far out as the drip line (the imaginary line drawn from the outer canopy of the tree down to the ground).