How Much and What Fertilizer Should You Use? Some gardeners have the best intentions for the growth and health of their plants, but inadvertently over fertilize by thinking “if a little bit is good, more will be better.” Too much can be worse than not enough. Other people forget to fertilize then overdo it with one big dose of plant food after months and months with none. Too much at one time can be worse than not fertilizing at all. This applies to houseplants as well as in-ground trees, shrubs and flowers.
If you think you have over- or under-fertilized your plants, come in to either of our stores to find out ways to deal with problems that may have occurred. Different plants need different types of fertilizers. Stop by either of our locations and ask our gardening experts. They will be happy to help you determine which fertilizer(s) are best for you.
For more information about fertilizing click hereand learn more about how to choose the right fertilizer.
Here’s a tip about how best to harvest your cucumbers!
There are two main types of cucumbers.
Slicing varieties are meant to be eaten fresh, while pickling types (pictured above) are bumpy, rough and even though they can be eaten fresh, blanching and pickling enhances their flavor.
Whichever variety you choose to grow, you need to know how to tell when cucumbers are ready to pick. It’s not an exact science, however, cucumbers need a fairly long growing season and are ready for harvesting usually in 50 to 70 days.
Cucumbers generally should be harvested when they are small, dark green and are firm to the touch. Some varieties, however like the Lemon Cucumber, are harvested when they turn yellow while other cucumbers are white when they are mature.
TJ’s TIP: When you slice open the cucumber and it looks like it is drying out and/or slightly hollow… that means that the plant is probably not getting enough water. Hollow cucumbers, or any hollow fruit, may result from inadequate fertilizing, inadequate pollination, but the most common reason is irregular watering. Always maintain an evenly moist soil, not too dry and not too wet.
As I have mentioned before, in the greenhouse we are always thinking 6 months ahead. For most individuals, it is now the end of summer and the beginning of fall. For us, it is poinsettias, poinsettias.
We started in July by planting over 3,400 pots of Poinsettias. We have begun to pinch back the poinsettias in order to have a much fuller plant by the holidays. As the month progresses, we will continue pinching. Soon, we will begin to block out some of the light giving the plants 14 hours of darkness and 10 hours of daylight in order to force them to change color.
We are a locally owned nursery and one of the few nurseries that grow their own poinsettias. Many of the local business and churches in Northern New Mexico know that they can place their orders for poinsettias now and not worry about tending to them until the week of Christmas. Come in and see the every changing crop.
In last week’s segment, the Garden Guru was giving some gardening advice about how to identify leaf damage and what actually causes it this time of year. Many times, the damage is caused by a variety of insects or disease but weather or environmental damage can also occur – and it looks similar to the damage by insects or disease. From scorching sun and hail to leaf cutter bees, aphids and spider mites, damage to a plant’s leaves can be determined by letting our gardening experts diagnose the problem. Bringing in a sample is best. Listen to Lynn’s tip for more information.
Tune in every Friday on KHFM Radio (95.5 FM) between 4 and 5 pm you’ll hear Lynn Payne’s tip of the week. The “Garden Guru” himself provides information on different topics including gardening tips, fun facts about plants, how to plant and prepare your garden for each season and special announcements.
CONGRATULATIONS TO MARILYN K. from SANTA FE! WINNER of a $25 GIFT CARD.
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